Camino Portuguese Day 5! We made it a grand total of 12km today 🙂 Dave and I both agreed this morning that we wanted a ‘day off’ from all this silly walking nonsense. We should have reached Ponte Lima yesterday (according to the guidebook). Being the seasoned walkers that we are, the rain and sore feet drove us indoors about 5pm as the idea of crossing a hill and down a bit was most unappealing. We absolutely made the right decision!
Last night we stayed at the very fortuitously located Hostel Casa Sagres (fortuitous as it meant we didn’t have to keep walking). A night in the 6 bed room cost us 15 euro each, plus 5 euro for an exceptionally tasty bolognaise. There was definitely a lot of porky goodness in the bolognaise, and maybe some minced goat (a local specialty) or maybe it was beef. Our chef only spoke Portuguese so there wasn’t an option for asking. Whatever it was had been slow cooked, was incredibly tender and looked, smelled and tasted divine.
Dave and I departed Hostel Casa Sagres at the rather lackadaisical hour of 9.15 (not quite keeping to our 22 past the hour theme but we were already behind our languid schedule). Not long after departure we discovered that many of our fellow walkers from the day before (many of whom ARE seasoned Camino walkers, and seem to bounce along at a frustratingly brusque pace) had also stopped short. While we may not be the fastest pilgrims, we seem to be keeping pace with many of those we meet along The Way.
The walk from Vitorino was GORGEOUS. The first section was a bit steep for a warm up, but trudge up we did. There was no rain today, only a slight mist. Low cloud clung to the hill-side. The path was DIRT, the trees were green and the air crisp and clean. This wonderful walking experience persisted for about 4km before we struck granite cobble stones again. I swear they’re doing it on purpose to mess with me. Just for some variation, they did lay a fair bit of asphalt, which was much less treacherous in the damp conditions, but the road-gods had mixed crushed granite into the surface, so it was equally unforgiving on joints/tendons etc. I was not a happy camper as the last 8km into Ponte Lima was far from pleasant on my feet. The view remained untarnished however.
There are actually quite a few more photos of the spectacular view, however these will need to be posted at another time. The WiFi in our current lodgings is uncooperative at best.
It did manage to upload all the the food photos from today though! First we have Dave’s standard morning tea – today’s was an apparently fantabulous chocolate eclair.
The eclair enabled him to power through the next 6km to Ponte Lima, where we found respite in the form of local produce store, Casa da Terra. It used to be the women’s prison, and also happened to be one of the first cafes we came across. Plus, it had a whole stack of wine on the shelf behind the main service area. Didn’t take much convincing after that. Local specialities include cured pork, slow cooked pork, goats cheese, and ‘vino verde’ or ‘green wine’. This is actually a very young/acidic white (or red) wine. We managed to get through a whole bottle of white quickly enough 🙂
That’s it from me for now! Good night!